#Lg mobile support tool cnet update#
#Lg mobile support tool cnet tv#
#Lg mobile support tool cnet windows#

We expect our results to be valid for those variants as well, but there may be some slight cosmetic differences. There are many variants of these TVs, all of which have the same model code, but the last three letters may vary. We tested the 48 inch model as a monitor, but note that our methodology isn't quite the same, so most of our results aren't directly comparable. For the most part, we expect our results to be valid for those models as well. We tested the LG 55 inch C1 (OLED55C1PUB), which also comes in 48 inch, 65 inch, 77 inch, and 83 inch sizes. However, we could bypass it to get accurate input lag measurements in and out of 'PC' mode.

#Lg mobile support tool cnet tv#

We experienced a bug while testing input lag, where the TV put itself into 'PC' mode automatically without showing it was enabled. The published results are what we measured using the 'Boost' setting. It works by sending a 120Hz signal to refresh the screen more frequently, meaning it doesn't affect 120Hz input lag. We ran several input lag tests and found that the 'Boost' setting consistently lowers the input lag by about 3 ms when the TV is running 60Hz compared to the LG CX OLED. There are two options: 'Standard' and 'Boost'. There's a new setting for 2021 models found in the Game Optimizer menu, called Prevent Input Delay. For low input lag with chroma 4:4:4, the input icon has to be changed to 'PC'. The LG C1 has a very low input lag as long as it's in 'Game Optimizer' mode. We've updated the review with the new results.

#Lg mobile support tool cnet update#

The firmware update doesn't have a significant impact on the input lag, and even though the VRR input lag increased by about 1 ms for each resolution, you won't notice the difference. Update : We updated the firmware to the latest version (03.25.10) and measured the input lag again using the same settings that we did before. Because the difference is negligible, we recommend keeping Peak Brightness on, since prioritizing a brighter image will result in a more enjoyable viewing experience. The color dE is a bit better, but the mapping is still off, as you can see here. The difference is minimal, so for consistency with our other reviews, the posted results are with this setting enabled. We also measured the accuracy of the C1 with the Peak Brightness setting turned off, and it improved some of the results: If you want an OLED with better accuracy out of the box, check out the Sony A80J OLED. Gamma is okay, but some brighter scenes are too bright and darker scenes too dim. The white balance is very off, as are most colors, and the color temperature is colder than our target, giving the image a blue tint. We double-checked our testing equipment and tried adjusting certain settings to rule out interference, but it's just that bad. Some other reviews have reported similar findings, so it could be a bad batch. Surprisingly, the LG C1 has bad out-of-the-box color accuracy, although this can vary between units. We hit 860 nits in the 2% window using these settings. To get the brightest possible image at the expense of picture quality, use the 'Vivid' Picture Mode, enable Dynamic Tone Mapping, and set Auto Dynamic Contrast to 'High', and leave the other settings as mentioned above. If you want to make HDR brighter, you can try enabling Dynamic Tone Mapping or setting Auto Dynamic Contrast to 'High', which can help as seen in this EOTF but is highly dependent on the content and even individual scenes. All other picture processing settings were left disabled. We measured HDR brightness before calibration, using the 'Cinema' Picture Mode, with Brightness and Contrast set to max, Peak Brightness on 'High', and Color Depth set to 'Warm 50'. If you want something that has the new evo panel and gets brighter, then check out the LG G1 OLED. Differences in brightness between this and the LG CX OLED may simply come down to panel variation.

#Lg mobile support tool cnet windows#

It was especially noticeable and distracting when connected to our PC, as it dimmed any windows that were left open within minutes. The ABL is very aggressive in HDR, which accounts for the variation in brightness and why it gets so dim with scenes that have large areas of brightness. As you can see in the EOTF, the overall brightness is on-target, but it may not be bright enough to hit the brightest highlights.